Archivi tag: fashion designer

ATELIER HAAS

The Road is Devendra

 

A conversation with young clothing designer Lisa Haas, 27 years old and currently based in Munich, who wants to bring back the awareness to the original hand craft and loves to create common projects as the above video. 

 

When did you start with fashion and why?

There was no clear starting point but I always felt drawn to creating things with my hands. That started at a very early age – drawing, paper crafting, crocheting… and never stopped to this day.

It happened naturally that I ended up in this field.

The passion about creating and realising your own ideas from a picture in your head until it comes alive in reality is what keeps me going. During my teenage years I started to teach myself how to sew. This resulted in designing and sewing my own graduation dress for school, although back then, I didn’t have much experience with pattern cutting. There was just this strong wish and belief to get this red dress done. And with a little help it worked out in the end.

Looking at that dress now makes me smile… but we all start somewhere. This is important.
Then things moved on from there. I did my first internship in my hometown and had the chance to do another one at Puma in London, to find out whether my wish to study fashion design after those experiences would prevail. It did.
I started with fashion because I truly love the handcraft. The ability of creating things by yourself and experiencing the whole development, every step, from start to finish causes a deep connection to what you are doing. That is a wonderful process and feeling to me. Expanding the knowledge on your craftsmanship in order to prevent it from dying out feels even more important nowadays. Actually, I prefer to say clothing design instead of fashion design, because to me that adds value to it.

Dreams.

One of my biggest dreams is to go abroad again to work with an international team in an interdisciplinary studio. The exchange between people within a team and the common work on a project towards the same goal makes me feel the special energy coming alive. Also this environment doesn’t need to be within fashion only. It is about creating the network.
At the moment, I am enticed by the opportunities of clothing design of work wear for restaurants, hotels, etc. You create clothing for real people who work there. Still, there is a minimalist and timeless design approach customized for each client, with the goal of making the uniforms personalised for every employee.
Another dream is to work as a costume designer for dance companies and music artists. I have a strong connection and love for dance, as I’ve been dancing myself for years. Here, creating clothing comes again with different challenges, this time combining customisation for each dancer while allowing optimal performance, i.e. movement.

My goal is to spread my enthusiasm with my fellow workers through the work and projects as well as the time we share together. Basically, contributing to the creative field with my work while also being able to gather people to learn and create together and thereby giving something back.

What to do to pursue goals?

Right now, I am focussing on connecting with people it would be great to work for and with. I am always open to collaborations. Currently, it feels like a transition phase. Simultaneously, I’m creating ideas and realizing outfit projects I have had in mind for a long time. I’m also working with people within the network I built up here in Munich.

time(is)less_LisaHaas_6_by IsabellaHager-mintime(is)less_LisaHaas_3_by IsabellaHager-min

Inspiration.

Stories around people and feelings that certain situations create inspire me most. This method is also how I approached my graduation collection “Time(is)less”. The concept is about the perception of time nowadays with regard to deceleration. Keywords are, amongst other things, protection and restriction. This resulted in creating some kind of ‘armour’ protecting you as a second layer. At the same time, this piece might narrow your own field of action because you wear it on top and it is not always possible to put it on fully by yourself. To me, this is a way of translating feelings into clothing. What does the wearer feel? It is my main question when creating.
Colours and textures are a source of inspiration too. Often, the fabrics are there before I really know what it is going to be. It is interesting, as sometimes the fabric just ‘tells’ what it should become. When there is a certain colour combination that attracts me, my eyes begin to sparkle. No matter where I find it… in the streets, in the landscape, in rooms, in pictures. I take photographs, sometimes some notes as well and come back to it when needed. Over time, this has resulted in some kind of photo library, a personal collection of inspiration.
Talking about this leads to another form of art that I enjoy: collages. With small cut out pictures from an existing world another new world is created. For this, I am randomly collecting newspapers and magazines to look for interesting images I can use any time later on.

Motivation.

I remind myself why I started this in the first place. It is sewing. It is gaining knowledge about the handcraft and learning within the field of aesthetics. Being capable of performing a certain task. I am also happy to spread my knowledge.
Obviously, you might reach a point in life where you rethink what you are doing right then. At that time, it may seem difficult but this hardship may bring a lot of (hidden) opportunities with it. You need to keep going, trust in yourself and listen to that inner voice. Even if the next chapter you are about to embark on isn’t clear yet.
Also, I try to reach out to other disciplines. A huge passion of mine is cycling with my racing bike. Long distance trips or climbs in the mountains always help me clear my mind and I return re-energised for new projects.

Difficulties.

What is the purpose of fashion nowadays? If you can speak of purpose… In which way do we need to produce today? These questions became more and more present over the years since the beginning of my studies.
For me, it starts with raising the perception and value of clothing in society again. There needs to be an awareness of how long it actually takes to realize a single garment, how much work and time is invested, in order to prevent it from being thrown away carelessly. The value of clothing has decreased over the years, but I also think it is slowly increasing again. We need to shift our minds and attitudes towards the worth of clothing.

My personal style is minimalistic and reduced with some details you only notice with a second, closer look. Taking inspiration from menswear and combining it with feminine shapes shows the interaction of contrasts, which I am fond of.

Even though it’s been a couple of years since I created ‘Time(is)less‘, it is still relevant today – how are we using our time nowadays and how is it influenced by society and the system’s rules?

To carry on this thought I came back to creating a timeless wardrobe representing yourself, as I still believe that clothing is a protection for yourself and your personality, that can make you feel comfortable – because unfitted, impersonalised clothing can achieve quite the opposite. Through defining your personality and the clear vision of what you want to wear in order to feel being yourself automatically leads to buying less but selected garments of good quality that have a long term space in your wardrobe. This is what I am focusing on in my work right now. Another challenge is to only make use of all the fabrics I collected over the years.

There is a love to create an outfit for someone, be it a wedding outfit and concert outfit for a cellist. My wish is to allow people to feel like themselves when wearing their outfit, it encourages them in what they are doing because it fits perfectly and underlines their personality.

My take on these issues and the future of clothing design:

Be aware of what you have and use what is already there. I believe that personalised clothing, i.e. especially made for someone, will increase its value to the owner. The awareness of how long it actually takes to create a garment needs to be transparent to consumers again to avoid the cycle of buying cheap clothes just like that and throwing them away uncaringly as soon as there is the slightest damage that could easily be fixed by someone with the most basic knowledge of sewing. To me there is magic in repairing things. Not only clothing. It shows that you care about them. Hence, I want to share not only that magical feeling with others but also give them a means of achieving this by sharing my knowledge and experience in the field.

VIDEOS – Styling by Atelier Haas

The Road is Devendra
Amy Ayanda – Visitors

Photo credits by Isabella Hager, Manuel Nieberle, Simon Freund, Lisa Haas

Atelier Haas

Donatella

THE HOUSE OF VARGAS – Part 2

Chanoa Tarle, a repeat Deshabille contributor, was lucky enough to discover the artwork of George Vargas. Once he began to produce fashion featuring his designs, she jumped at the chance to interview him. Of course we said yes…

 

Following his first ayahuasca experience, many of his works went on to feature even more esoteric themes linked to spirituality, meditation and creative, cosmic expansion. Post-ayahuasca, Vargas knew exactly what he wanted to express. He describes his work as a “complete engagement with beauty”. He follows his yen for beauty and the more he focuses on this beauty, the more it grows and the more it appears throughout his existence. A fitting destiny for the Australian artist with parents hailing from Peru!

 

It’s a fun journey, linked a lot to my meditation and spirituality. It’s good to unplug from the art and the world. The idea of feeling you’ve got everything and don’t need anything. That’s what I want to express in the next series of artwork. I went through an exploration of desire and the mystery of women and every girl is completely different- and obviously every human being. It’s a fascinating journey. I see a lot of femininity in nature. Masculinity is interesting too because I’m reacting to that…” – George Vargas

 

 

Fast forward to 2018 and his distinctive designs are the focal point of a new luxury fashion brand, The House of Vargas. High quality tees feature his artwork in an array of colors. Incredible scarves and sarongs in silk and chiffon highlight the beauty of the women who wear them – never overpowering them – while serving as wearable art. There is something about the way he produces the art and produces the collections. There’s an energy to every piece that is nearly palpable. George attributes it to beauty, a common theme in  his works: “I suppose it’s this overpowering beauty I’m feeling for the subject and it’s captured in the vibration and the line and the colors. It’s a bit overpowering like a drug. Intoxicating.”

 

“Luxury is all about self-expression to me because you’ve got clothing that all looks the same out there. Luxury to me is having something unique to wear. The scarves will always be limited edition. [I’m offering] jackets of only five pieces in the world.” Since there will never be another you, he loves the idea of offering something truly unique.

Since there will never be another you, he loves the idea of offering something truly unique. Art-adorned leather motorcycle jackets are coming soon, the product of a new partnership with a leather specialist- as well as leather bomber jackets for men and women. The first, set to debut this month, is the Aki Jacket.

 

 

His fashion brand has so far developed in a very organic way. And we can expect to see a lot more from The House of Vargas in the future. The custom stories he crafts for each design will evolve into future fashion films. More product categories will be introduced. We’ll see artful exhibitions. He’s even ready to transform the likes of nightclubs, restaurants and yoga centers; his designs are available for custom commercial interior design.

TheHouseofVargas.com

Instagram: @galacticemperor12

Editor’s Note: When the author interviewed the artist for Deshabille Magazine, the video call wouldn’t register her face. After their conversation, Vargas looked her up on Instagram and saw her as a striking character for his pieces. She is now one of his muses, featured regularly in his works.

 

Chanoa Tarle About Chanoa Tarle 

Chanoa Tarle is a freelance copywriter, journalist and editor specializing in fashion and luxury goods/lifestyle.

Her work has appeared in magazines including ELEVATE and Luxury Hoteliers and she’s written for an inspiring list of companies including Scaling Retail and Neiman Marcus.

www.ChanoaTarle.com

Get in touch – Email chanoa@chanoatarle.com

 

 

THE HOUSE OF VARGAS – Part 1

Chanoa Tarle, a repeat Deshabille contributor, was lucky enough to discover the artwork of George Vargas. Once he began to produce fashion featuring his designs, she jumped at the chance to interview him. Of course we said yes…

 

George Vargas, multi-disciplinary artist, creative director, and now- emerging fashion designer – is not a person one easily forgets. He lights up with animation at the mention of his projects, quickly shifting from insights on spirituality, meditation and pop culture, to the benefits of this fabric over that one and societal predictions for the future.

It would be a disservice to reduce his nature to words. For a proper introduction, I’ll let his artwork and fashion do the talking.

The Sydney-based artist got his start as a musician. Then his love for music segued into another passion- the visual arts. Vargas says “the drawing got carried away” and today much of his images come from what he perceives when he listens to music. His first forays into art began with posters for songs, eventually leading up to fine art projects over the last 12 years.

Hosting huge Facebook castings to find people he was visually drawn to, exposed him to a world of possibilities. He would create a piece, the subject would connect him to more people, and so the chain of connections would continue. Then the Banksy documentary, “Exit Through the Gift Shop”, confirmed this newfound power of art. The film made him realize if the film’s protagonist, Thierry Guetta, could sell his art- then he too could be like a rockstar.

And so his fate was sealed. George Vargas, relative of 1950’s pin-up artist to the stars, Alberto Vargas, pushed forward with his art career. George became very drawn to the goddess theme and Pagan elements, leaning towards fun cartoon characters with “abstract doodling everywhere”.

“There’s information in every single line and people just feel it. It’s like creating a new language.” – George Vargas

The obscure works may feature Egyptian pharaohs, pop culture figures (from David Lynch and Andy Warhol to Cookie Monster and Jim Morrison) or any one of his favorite goddess muses like Australian model Alex Patterson and Mara from NYC who feature in many of his pieces. “It goes back to an adoring aspect – women are always powerful,” says Vargas.

Look out for Part 2 of this feature to learn how spirituality would impact George Vargas’ work, and the launching of his luxury fashion brand, The House of Vargas.

TheHouseofVargas.com

Instagram: @galacticemperor12

Editor’s Note: When the author interviewed the artist for Deshabille Magazine, the video call wouldn’t register her face. After their conversation, Vargas looked her up on Instagram and saw her as a striking character for his pieces. She is now one of his muses, featured regularly in his works.

 

Chanoa Tarle About Chanoa Tarle 

Chanoa Tarle is a freelance copywriter, journalist and editor specializing in fashion and luxury goods/lifestyle.

Her work has appeared in magazines including ELEVATE and Luxury Hoteliers and she’s written for an inspiring list of companies including Scaling Retail and Neiman Marcus.

www.ChanoaTarle.com

Get in touch – Email chanoa@chanoatarle.com

 

Anja Lauermann

“Don’t think too much. Just do it! You only know whether it works if you give it a try.”

Hallo Anja! Can you introduce yourself?!

Hi! I’m a fashion designer with my own fashion label. I’m 28 years old and living in Lower Austria, close to Vienna.

How/when did you start and where does your passion come from?

I studied fashion design at “Die Herbststraße” in Vienna and graduated in 2011. I established my own fashion label and opened my own shop in Stockerau – near Vienna – in 2012. I love creating something new related to fashion and the feeling that comes with it!

What would you say to somebody who have a dream like yours?

Don’t think too much. Just do it! You only know whether it works if you give it a try.

Do you have a place/city in which you feel more inspired and why?

Vienna is a source of continuous inspiration for me.
For instance, think about the Salzkammergut which is an area with beautiful lakes. Over there, I can immerse myself in a precious silence that rewards me with a new strength. Unlike other cities in Austria, Vienna is quieter and more convenient.

How do you concretely keep in touch with the world?

Primarily, I use my Facebook page, Instagram and my website. I post about upcoming events, photos of the new collections designed by the other Austrian creatives represented in my multi- label store and also my creations. Once a month I reach my customers with the newsletter.

Moreover, I sell my collections in other shops in Vienna, on the new onlineshop for Austrian fashion design LIEBLINGSBRAND and on different fashion markets in Vienna.

What makes you different?

I want to create fashion for every day and every type of woman. It’s also very important for me that my collections are produced in a fair and ethical way and that my customers are aware of this.

Projects for the future.

In the future I want to concentrate more on the international market.

3 words to describe you and your art and why.

Classic, feminine, elegant.

Simple feminine elegance gets in touch with avantgarde and a breeze of minimalism. The combination of discreet colors, innovative patterns, extravagant details and selected materials turn into timeless design. It’s important for me that my fashion is classic. If you buy a dress of a new collection, you can also wear it after 3 years. My fashion should be combinable. You can wear a blouse with jeans and get the casual look or you can wear it with a black pencil skirt and it looks feminine and elegant.

To know more about her collections click here

Anja Lauermann

Donatella

Claudia Errante

In the Spring 2013 I asked myself: “There must be a way to wear a turban with the comfort of having them already ready to wear, whenever you want, without having to tie and build them all the time!” No sooner than I thought it, I did it!

 

First of all I would like to thank you for giving me the opportunity to tell something about me in your wonderful magazine. I’m an italian fashion designer. I’m 27 years old and I am Sardinian. I live in a beautiful city, Cagliari, a place that helps me to be happy, although it’s very difficult to live here. I’m a very messy, eccentric and curious girl and I love imperfections.
In my job there are NO RULES (order, schemes and rules are not for me. I know, I’m very undisciplined!). I want to be free to live and I feel that I am really fulfilled.

In 2010 I finished my studies and graduated in Fashion Design at Istituto di Moda Burgo in Milan. Later I worked so hard, experienced and learned a lot thanks to some artists who, believing in me, allowed me to assist them in their work and teaching me the “True Life of a Craftsman”. I immediately wanted to get involved, getting more consensus on my debut, which occurred in March 2012.

From that moment I never stopped creating!

But for a moment I would like to put aside the “Claudia designer” and I want to speak to you as fashion lover. Even since I was a child, I never left my house without an accessory on my head; it could be a bow, a scarf or a hat, it did no matter, it was only important that I did not have a bare head (that’s how I feel if I don’t wear an accessory!)… this is my hallmark. Because I loved turbans, I tried often to build them in my head, and in the Spring 2013 I asked myself: “There must be a way to wear a turban with the comfort of having them already ready to wear, whenever you want, without having to tie and build them all the time!” No sooner than I thought it, I did it!

I experimented and found a perfect mixed structured line of a turban with the convenience of a real hat. Now I’m in effect THE GIRL OF TURBANS!  😀

Movie stars from the past and African women are my source of inspiration, even though they are two contrasting styles. It is an accessory that reminds me of grandmothers, the dark times that they lived and the desire to feel beautiful and stilysh, even though they could not wash or take care of their hair during the Second World War.

The woman, in general, is for me a source of inspiration, such as the many and strong women who fight against a disease, who need and want to feel beautiful despite fighting constantly with a monster trying to spoil their beauty. It is a kind of gift for them, a moment of being carefree and frivolous.

I allow them to combine helpful with pleasure.

Where does it happen?! Almost never in my city, because I always looking for high quality, rare or vintage fabrics and less popular, special prints and colors. I rely very often on a company that works also online, but of course my favourite stores are the markets organized in the city. There you can find many treasures, such as fine tablecloths, perfect to created one or more turbans, very old fabrics disused belonging to old seamstresses, the kind that makes you admire its textures and patterns, and makes you want to say the classic but true sentence: “There aren’t any more beautiful fabrics like in the past!”

I work alone, drawing, designing, sewing, advertising, organizing, selling, delivering and I also take care of everything that revolves around my brand. I’m also a waitress every night in a restaurant. That’s because I’m messy, undisciplined and disorganized! To be ble to have a person who works for me is the next step. Unfortunately until now I do not have the financial ability to hold up the expense of an assistant. I hope that things will get better and above all that the brand is able to fly, to afford to live only by my passion and give work to some greatly talented guys who are unfortunatly unemployed.

Social networks have given me the opportunity to have costumers from all over the world and a lot of visibility. Many American girls find my products via hashtag that I post on Intagram. Believe me, I did not think that social networks had all this power and this big utility!

Much of the credit of my success definitly goes to “Amazing*Us”, a cultural association that organizes events in my town dedicated to art and artisanship. They supported me, by allowing me to share my products at their events, that hosts Sardinian curious, but also with many tourists, giving them the opportunity to learn our local products.

Well, thanks to these events, I have expanded my costumers and now I regularly have lots of Russian, Spanish and English girls that have discovered my items and my brand during their vacation in Cagliari. Isn’t it cool?!?

Thank you so much dear Deshabille, it was an honor and a pleasure to chat with you!

Claudia Errante Fashion Designer

Website

Donatella

BOLLI SARTORIA CREATIVA

Actually, we never followed the rules of the world of fashion, we chose to follow our passion which bloomed from our love for the handmade…

 

We are Giulia and Caterina, born in the city of Arezzo under the Cancer sign.

Actually, we never followed the rules of the world of fashion, we chose to follow our passion, which bloomed from our love for the handmade and the small world we shape on ourselves, a universe made of pure craftsmanship. Bolli Sartoria Creativa was born officially on 10th March 2007, after 7 long years on working our way up. Copy of thinktwice (2)

We believe deeply in the freedom of expression and we are fascinated by how clothing contribute in being part of an identity. Thinking about what you are wearing is a choice; you chose the way  you want to feel with yourself and with your body. We are similar to “sponges” that’s why we get inspiration from anything that surround us. It could be a trip, a book, an art exhibition, a fabric… our purpose is to create only unique items!

Our customer base does not have an age limit, we serve children with a delicious collection for kids and ladies with trendy dresses. Most of our customers are Italian but we have also sold items to a Spanish shop in Barcelona, and thanks to wonderful friends around the world, we reached and we are appreciated also abroad.

We started our brand by producing hoodies, and till today they represent the primary product of our brand. The production increased and we enriched the collections with more sport clothing, and also elegant options: blazers and coats characterized as cold white winter season and, as previously said, the children collection. Beside our general offer we always give the chance to create a customized item chosen and selected from our clients, with a wide disposal of our fabrics.

Through the years we overcame difficult moments. Being sisters has been a positive experience, allowing us to have a connection that goes far beyond words, and most of all creativity. Rivers of words flow with no restraints when we have to confront each other or come to a final decision on something, we reach some points when we have to listen like we never knew each other.

thinktwice (23)

We had to make hard choices that ultimately proved to be precious for our professional growth, invigorating us. In the beginning the decision to open the shop in Arezzo was a challenge, we put more time and efforts on the creative side and to the improvement of the product quality. Italy is not known to assists businesses, nor the youngest in their entrepreneur path, especially if you are like us and chose the hard way of an artisan job. We are happy and proud to do what we love everyday and we strongly recommend whoever believes in this career to try.
Our website will soon be here where you can shop online:

 

KILENZ

You have to be passionate in what you do, every plan needs more time than what you imagined at the beginning.

 

 

Kilenz is Hanna and Anna’s delicate concept. It was a warm afternoon of summer when we decided to have a friendly chat with Hanna, 28 years old from Munich, in order to get to know their brand better. After 6- 7 years of studies and traineeships in several ateliers to gain experience, she pursued her dream with a friend, the other Anna, a former fellow student. In 2012 they launched Kilenz in a cellar in Munich, mainly friends and family were coming in, the main strategy was organizing parties to entertain and attract new clients and get known, was really though attracting more clients. In April 2014 they moved into the current atelier in Glockenbachviertel, since then their growth has been fast and stable.

Currently Hanna Wolf is leading Kilenz alone since Anna Hinterdobler left the business at the end of last year.

Let us talk about your marketing strategy.

The promotion of the brand happens most of the time by word of mouth, people have a look at the windows and come in, sometimes we produce small handouts and other times we throw nice parties so that our clients may have a drink, get to know the place, being intrigued by the product, the downside of this strategy is the small budget available, it is not easy to do everything we’d like to.

Second of all, it would be great to be a green company, regrettably it’s really expensive. More important: it’s hard to get the desired materials in organic or fair trade quality. The fact is that I really care about this issue, my mother who had an organic shop had a significant influence on me this is why environment is important to me.

How did you start to work together with Anna?

We started working in different companies but the fashion world is not an easy world, that’s why we decided to try to push ourselves beyond our limits and create something together. We spent half year thinking and discussing about the project, in January we started and in April the opening occurred presenting our first collection. Usually we work independently, each one of us on its own, in a second step we merge the ideas and it is definitely thrilling how they always fit.

Why the name Kilenz?

It means 9 in Hungarian: we started 9 years ago, me and Anna met 9 years ago. We changed the name a little bit, “Lenz” in German means Spring, we also tried to find a combination of different things that makes the name sound original.

Generally you opt for a static photo shoot, why?

I prefer to keep it simple and easy. I love it pure and straight, it shouldn’t be too much.

What are the people in Munich looking for?

Some people don’t know what they are looking for and most of the them don’t know what they’ll find by us. They come because they need a dress for a special day so we try to give them what they need, we showcase several options, starting from the colors for instance. We can customize everything or just details but we always stick to our style. We usually need around 6 weeks to realize a dress, but of course it depends on the specific case.

Do clients really realize how long it takes to make a dress?!

Usually they try to get earlier what they want! The first appointment is just to decide what the final desired product should be, after that my research focuses on the fabrics needed and eventually their purchase. In the following phase they come in to wear it on so we can start to make the right adjustments. Around 2-3 appointments are necessary to get the job done.

Which kind of customers come here?

They are so different: it could happen to be my neighbor or a princess!

It’s always exciting to find out the result of the combination of our style and their style. At the end of the day what matters is that we have both to be happy. If I think that the dress is not suitable for the customer, I just say it and we proceed only to produce something  that both we appreciate. It is a collaboration; if I do something that I don’t sincerely approve to be worthy, then at the end of the day nobody will be content.

From which fashion designer are you inspired?

I really love Dries van Noten. He is still independent and I think that this is great, he is really cool and successful. The whole concept is good, you can always notice when the clothes are from him.

How do you think you can inspire somebody?

“Less is More”, I want to show that simple things can be the right option. Fashion is often too much, too overloaded. A lot of people would look better if they rather choose the “Less”. I try to suggest to some of my friends for example, by telling them what they could try on, sometimes a person doesn’t understand alone what look is better for itself.

What would you say to somebody who show a dream like yours?

You have to be passionate in what you do, every plan needs more time than what you imagined at the beginning. Work very hard for a long time and later maybe you’ll get famous. I think that you need at least 4 or 5 years to see some results. It’s always a risk but you have to try. If you have a lot of money it can be easier, but otherwise you need a lot of creativity and work.

Our families strongly supported us, not financially but by doing for us everything they can, all the way until now they did everything necessary to make our dream happen.

What do the people say of your job?

Most of the time they only see the brightest side: they think that our job is amazing, they envy the fact we are able to spend our time doing something so creative, but they don’t realize the downside: for example, the struggle with the money, at the end of the month we have to count every penny because we don’t have a real salary, we need time and patience to get there.

Do you have time to travel? Where do you get your inspiration?

Unfortunately I don’t have so much time to do it as often as I would like. I often take my inspiration from the daily life, my environment and the people. Traveling is a way to get more and more inspiration, but anyway what I design is what I would like to wear and what my customer could actually wear in the daily life.

Any project for the future?

I would like to expand the brand and take the basic collection in more cities but what it is important for me is to lose not the contact with the reality, we like the glamour of the international world of fashion, yes, but our main goal is to have always real people wearing our clothes, I won’t ever sacrifice the connection with our regular customer.

To get more information, please visit: http://kilenz.com

The shop is in Jahnstraße 52,  Munich.

 

Donatella

ESRA

I try my best and I always go hard in everything I do. I am not sitting home waiting for something to happen.

 

Esra, German – Turkish fashion designer with a Persian name was born in Munich 23 years ago.

Her grandparents came to Europe around 1964 to change their destinies and find employment. Eventually, they decided to settle in Munich. After so many years they still feel strangers in this host land for many reasons: a language which they can’t speak properly, a so faraway culture, say nothing of the different diet. Let us be real, in exchange the new land offered much more possibilities than what Turkey could offer at that time, so that was the best choice they could take. “For us, grandchildren, Germany is home, Turkey is a destination where to spend a nice vacation but as soon as we step in a German airport the feeling which embrace us is always the same: welcome back home. It is also true that the Turkish feeling you have in Turkey is so far away from the Turkish feeling you sense in Germany, I can’t explain”. The parents and grandparents lost so many things by coming to Europe, this is why they want to make sure that Esra and her siblings preserve their culture by teaching them the language, inspire their eating habits by cooking and dining together traditional Turkish food.

Why fashion, Esra? 

“I have always been used to drawing Japanese anime and I liked to draw them with different hair looks, add clothes for them to wear and make them fashionable. At that point I realized that I wanted to create clothes, it was funny to match them together, choosing the colours. I love drawing and love clothes so I have merged the two passions in one with the aim to make this big dream real. I am thrilled about the fact that my ideas have the chance to become real things, to feel and to touch. They originate from my head and come out into reality; seeing this process of transformation is amazing. I make everything by myself and I don’t like to copy, I want only my ideas.” The first collection of Esra, inspired by Hanbok (traditional Korean dress) and a bit from Yamamoto, is from 2014, a project with the university that took 6 months of hard work.

Why this overwhelming passion for Korea and Asia?

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“Because it reminds me of my childhood, I was always watching Japanese anime. I love Asian food (and she can prepare it very well!), the culture, how they live with each other. I also tried to learn Korean on my own, starting of course from a real so difficult- to- deal- with alphabet.”

– Esra admires Karl Lagerfeld, defining him as a wonderful and special person. Her positive opinion about him came thanks to a documentary which drove her in the perception of him as intelligent, pragmatic, appreciating the unique way he communicates [1]. She was also inspired by the designs of Yohji Yamamoto [2]; pure and clear, not exaggerated and not overloaded of accessories.

The studies.

MDH is a private University in Munich. Esra told us in a calm state of mind that if in 10 years she won’t feel to be in the fashion industry anymore, she will simply switch to something different. “I try everything that I want to try, I wanted to study fashion design and I simply did it.” In the next future, she sees herself launching her own brand and bouncing it all over the world, the aim is to create a high quality product which the consumer can wear in daily life, won’t be Haute Couture. “I think that every- day- fashion is more interesting and eloquent because it can communicate the identity of a person. Sometimes it screams and sometimes it only whispers who you are, but it always communicates. Haute Couture is just elegant, someone that wears a Chanel dress, predictably I would say, wants to appear beautiful or elegant but it will actually be more difficult to decipher the personality. See the clothes, and you can perceive something about the person.”

“I am currently at my fourth year of studying. I have also applied for an internship in Turkey for a fashion company in the city where my family comes from. In the future I would like to live in Japan and Korea.”
Her background is multicultural that is why she doesn’t have any problems integrating in another social and cultural context: “When I will be in Asia, the culture I belong to won’t matter, what matters is to be open, kind and friendly.”
Going back to fashion, what she appreciates in Asia is the freedom to wear anything according to your style and liking, since in daily life during work hours, they have to limit themselves stylistically, on the contrary in Europe “We are not really open minded in terms of fashion.”

 

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What can you tell us about this school?

“Unfortunately it is very expensive, if you can’t afford it you can’t study there. My monthly fee is around 700€, I can afford it by working on the weekend, trying on my own and not asking my family for financial support. It is hard, yes, but life comes in its own way, it does not make sense to make many plans, just live it. I try my best and I always go hard in everything I do. I am not sitting home and waiting for something to happen.”

Religion

Because of her religion Esra has to cover her body and her hair. Some people say that she should feel uncomfortable in creating clothes for women who don’t need to be covered. “The reason why I make clothes is because I feel that I have to, this is what I want to do. When I create, I feel that I want to share what I am, it would make no sense to create clothes only for myself”.

Why do you choose to wear total black look (except for your red Chucks!)?

Black is always elegant, for every occasion; cocktail, dinner, everyday life, easy to combine with other things. Black is uncomplicated.

Would you compromise in order to get where you want? 

“I wouldn’t, losing myself and my own ideas is not worth it, I want to do something that represents me and my thoughts.”

If you could give an advice to other fashion designers…

“Always believe in your dreams and yourself.”

How do you believe in yourself?

“If I really want to do something, I believe that I can do it. You learn this rule especially when you grow up with siblings, you have always to fight to earn your things!”

 Your inspiration comes from…

“Everywhere; a movie, a landscape, a flower, a colour.”

If you could choose to be someone else, to change something or to move to a place where nobody knows you, where you don’t have to give explanations to anyone, what would you do?

“I think I will like to be born again as myself because I am actually happy in my life. My strength resides in the fact that I don’t worry about the things I cannot control, I put always my all in everything I do, I give 100% and if anything negative happens I try to transform it to my advantage.”

Are you like this because of you or because of your family?

“It’s my experience, and of course my religion influences my view, it’s part of my life. When I am praying my life becomes easier, those ten minutes or more of prayer appear without problems, I can be myself.”

Describe yourself in few words.

“Basically a positive girl with a good sense of humor, focused and strong. I am a tough girl, I don’t give up easily. I am always honest even though sometimes it is hard to do it because it can hurt… What do I hate? When people are not honest.”

Good luck Esra!

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 [1] About KARL LAGERFELD, the star of a new documentary. The four-hour production aired on September 7 – 2013 in Germany. The mini biopic focused on the designer’s career and the relationship between fashion and religion – drawing comparisons between fashion magazines and the bible, and likening models to angels. The film was directed by television journalist Martina Neuen. “It’s a bit tongue-in-cheek,” Neuen told WWD. “It cannot offer you redemption or anything eternal.” Lagerfeld allowed the journalist access to his shows and studio over a period of 16 months – and shared details of his personal life and career. The documentary, entitled Mode Als Religion (Fashion as a Religion), also features interviews with Diane Kruger, Sarah Jessica Parker, Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista, Suzy Menkes and Milla Jovovich – to name but a few. “He is the most impressive person I’ve ever met,” added Neuen. “He is a true individual, and there’s a lightness of being around him.” Source: Vogue.co.uk.

 More information here: http://www.mediadesign.de/

 

Donatella