Archivi tag: german fashion

KILENZ

You have to be passionate in what you do, every plan needs more time than what you imagined at the beginning.

 

 

Kilenz is Hanna and Anna’s delicate concept. It was a warm afternoon of summer when we decided to have a friendly chat with Hanna, 28 years old from Munich, in order to get to know their brand better. After 6- 7 years of studies and traineeships in several ateliers to gain experience, she pursued her dream with a friend, the other Anna, a former fellow student. In 2012 they launched Kilenz in a cellar in Munich, mainly friends and family were coming in, the main strategy was organizing parties to entertain and attract new clients and get known, was really though attracting more clients. In April 2014 they moved into the current atelier in Glockenbachviertel, since then their growth has been fast and stable.

Currently Hanna Wolf is leading Kilenz alone since Anna Hinterdobler left the business at the end of last year.

Let us talk about your marketing strategy.

The promotion of the brand happens most of the time by word of mouth, people have a look at the windows and come in, sometimes we produce small handouts and other times we throw nice parties so that our clients may have a drink, get to know the place, being intrigued by the product, the downside of this strategy is the small budget available, it is not easy to do everything we’d like to.

Second of all, it would be great to be a green company, regrettably it’s really expensive. More important: it’s hard to get the desired materials in organic or fair trade quality. The fact is that I really care about this issue, my mother who had an organic shop had a significant influence on me this is why environment is important to me.

How did you start to work together with Anna?

We started working in different companies but the fashion world is not an easy world, that’s why we decided to try to push ourselves beyond our limits and create something together. We spent half year thinking and discussing about the project, in January we started and in April the opening occurred presenting our first collection. Usually we work independently, each one of us on its own, in a second step we merge the ideas and it is definitely thrilling how they always fit.

Why the name Kilenz?

It means 9 in Hungarian: we started 9 years ago, me and Anna met 9 years ago. We changed the name a little bit, “Lenz” in German means Spring, we also tried to find a combination of different things that makes the name sound original.

Generally you opt for a static photo shoot, why?

I prefer to keep it simple and easy. I love it pure and straight, it shouldn’t be too much.

What are the people in Munich looking for?

Some people don’t know what they are looking for and most of the them don’t know what they’ll find by us. They come because they need a dress for a special day so we try to give them what they need, we showcase several options, starting from the colors for instance. We can customize everything or just details but we always stick to our style. We usually need around 6 weeks to realize a dress, but of course it depends on the specific case.

Do clients really realize how long it takes to make a dress?!

Usually they try to get earlier what they want! The first appointment is just to decide what the final desired product should be, after that my research focuses on the fabrics needed and eventually their purchase. In the following phase they come in to wear it on so we can start to make the right adjustments. Around 2-3 appointments are necessary to get the job done.

Which kind of customers come here?

They are so different: it could happen to be my neighbor or a princess!

It’s always exciting to find out the result of the combination of our style and their style. At the end of the day what matters is that we have both to be happy. If I think that the dress is not suitable for the customer, I just say it and we proceed only to produce something  that both we appreciate. It is a collaboration; if I do something that I don’t sincerely approve to be worthy, then at the end of the day nobody will be content.

From which fashion designer are you inspired?

I really love Dries van Noten. He is still independent and I think that this is great, he is really cool and successful. The whole concept is good, you can always notice when the clothes are from him.

How do you think you can inspire somebody?

“Less is More”, I want to show that simple things can be the right option. Fashion is often too much, too overloaded. A lot of people would look better if they rather choose the “Less”. I try to suggest to some of my friends for example, by telling them what they could try on, sometimes a person doesn’t understand alone what look is better for itself.

What would you say to somebody who show a dream like yours?

You have to be passionate in what you do, every plan needs more time than what you imagined at the beginning. Work very hard for a long time and later maybe you’ll get famous. I think that you need at least 4 or 5 years to see some results. It’s always a risk but you have to try. If you have a lot of money it can be easier, but otherwise you need a lot of creativity and work.

Our families strongly supported us, not financially but by doing for us everything they can, all the way until now they did everything necessary to make our dream happen.

What do the people say of your job?

Most of the time they only see the brightest side: they think that our job is amazing, they envy the fact we are able to spend our time doing something so creative, but they don’t realize the downside: for example, the struggle with the money, at the end of the month we have to count every penny because we don’t have a real salary, we need time and patience to get there.

Do you have time to travel? Where do you get your inspiration?

Unfortunately I don’t have so much time to do it as often as I would like. I often take my inspiration from the daily life, my environment and the people. Traveling is a way to get more and more inspiration, but anyway what I design is what I would like to wear and what my customer could actually wear in the daily life.

Any project for the future?

I would like to expand the brand and take the basic collection in more cities but what it is important for me is to lose not the contact with the reality, we like the glamour of the international world of fashion, yes, but our main goal is to have always real people wearing our clothes, I won’t ever sacrifice the connection with our regular customer.

To get more information, please visit: http://kilenz.com

The shop is in Jahnstraße 52,  Munich.

 

Donatella

ESRA

I try my best and I always go hard in everything I do. I am not sitting home waiting for something to happen.

 

Esra, German – Turkish fashion designer with a Persian name was born in Munich 23 years ago.

Her grandparents came to Europe around 1964 to change their destinies and find employment. Eventually, they decided to settle in Munich. After so many years they still feel strangers in this host land for many reasons: a language which they can’t speak properly, a so faraway culture, say nothing of the different diet. Let us be real, in exchange the new land offered much more possibilities than what Turkey could offer at that time, so that was the best choice they could take. “For us, grandchildren, Germany is home, Turkey is a destination where to spend a nice vacation but as soon as we step in a German airport the feeling which embrace us is always the same: welcome back home. It is also true that the Turkish feeling you have in Turkey is so far away from the Turkish feeling you sense in Germany, I can’t explain”. The parents and grandparents lost so many things by coming to Europe, this is why they want to make sure that Esra and her siblings preserve their culture by teaching them the language, inspire their eating habits by cooking and dining together traditional Turkish food.

Why fashion, Esra? 

“I have always been used to drawing Japanese anime and I liked to draw them with different hair looks, add clothes for them to wear and make them fashionable. At that point I realized that I wanted to create clothes, it was funny to match them together, choosing the colours. I love drawing and love clothes so I have merged the two passions in one with the aim to make this big dream real. I am thrilled about the fact that my ideas have the chance to become real things, to feel and to touch. They originate from my head and come out into reality; seeing this process of transformation is amazing. I make everything by myself and I don’t like to copy, I want only my ideas.” The first collection of Esra, inspired by Hanbok (traditional Korean dress) and a bit from Yamamoto, is from 2014, a project with the university that took 6 months of hard work.

Why this overwhelming passion for Korea and Asia?

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“Because it reminds me of my childhood, I was always watching Japanese anime. I love Asian food (and she can prepare it very well!), the culture, how they live with each other. I also tried to learn Korean on my own, starting of course from a real so difficult- to- deal- with alphabet.”

– Esra admires Karl Lagerfeld, defining him as a wonderful and special person. Her positive opinion about him came thanks to a documentary which drove her in the perception of him as intelligent, pragmatic, appreciating the unique way he communicates [1]. She was also inspired by the designs of Yohji Yamamoto [2]; pure and clear, not exaggerated and not overloaded of accessories.

The studies.

MDH is a private University in Munich. Esra told us in a calm state of mind that if in 10 years she won’t feel to be in the fashion industry anymore, she will simply switch to something different. “I try everything that I want to try, I wanted to study fashion design and I simply did it.” In the next future, she sees herself launching her own brand and bouncing it all over the world, the aim is to create a high quality product which the consumer can wear in daily life, won’t be Haute Couture. “I think that every- day- fashion is more interesting and eloquent because it can communicate the identity of a person. Sometimes it screams and sometimes it only whispers who you are, but it always communicates. Haute Couture is just elegant, someone that wears a Chanel dress, predictably I would say, wants to appear beautiful or elegant but it will actually be more difficult to decipher the personality. See the clothes, and you can perceive something about the person.”

“I am currently at my fourth year of studying. I have also applied for an internship in Turkey for a fashion company in the city where my family comes from. In the future I would like to live in Japan and Korea.”
Her background is multicultural that is why she doesn’t have any problems integrating in another social and cultural context: “When I will be in Asia, the culture I belong to won’t matter, what matters is to be open, kind and friendly.”
Going back to fashion, what she appreciates in Asia is the freedom to wear anything according to your style and liking, since in daily life during work hours, they have to limit themselves stylistically, on the contrary in Europe “We are not really open minded in terms of fashion.”

 

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What can you tell us about this school?

“Unfortunately it is very expensive, if you can’t afford it you can’t study there. My monthly fee is around 700€, I can afford it by working on the weekend, trying on my own and not asking my family for financial support. It is hard, yes, but life comes in its own way, it does not make sense to make many plans, just live it. I try my best and I always go hard in everything I do. I am not sitting home and waiting for something to happen.”

Religion

Because of her religion Esra has to cover her body and her hair. Some people say that she should feel uncomfortable in creating clothes for women who don’t need to be covered. “The reason why I make clothes is because I feel that I have to, this is what I want to do. When I create, I feel that I want to share what I am, it would make no sense to create clothes only for myself”.

Why do you choose to wear total black look (except for your red Chucks!)?

Black is always elegant, for every occasion; cocktail, dinner, everyday life, easy to combine with other things. Black is uncomplicated.

Would you compromise in order to get where you want? 

“I wouldn’t, losing myself and my own ideas is not worth it, I want to do something that represents me and my thoughts.”

If you could give an advice to other fashion designers…

“Always believe in your dreams and yourself.”

How do you believe in yourself?

“If I really want to do something, I believe that I can do it. You learn this rule especially when you grow up with siblings, you have always to fight to earn your things!”

 Your inspiration comes from…

“Everywhere; a movie, a landscape, a flower, a colour.”

If you could choose to be someone else, to change something or to move to a place where nobody knows you, where you don’t have to give explanations to anyone, what would you do?

“I think I will like to be born again as myself because I am actually happy in my life. My strength resides in the fact that I don’t worry about the things I cannot control, I put always my all in everything I do, I give 100% and if anything negative happens I try to transform it to my advantage.”

Are you like this because of you or because of your family?

“It’s my experience, and of course my religion influences my view, it’s part of my life. When I am praying my life becomes easier, those ten minutes or more of prayer appear without problems, I can be myself.”

Describe yourself in few words.

“Basically a positive girl with a good sense of humor, focused and strong. I am a tough girl, I don’t give up easily. I am always honest even though sometimes it is hard to do it because it can hurt… What do I hate? When people are not honest.”

Good luck Esra!

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 [1] About KARL LAGERFELD, the star of a new documentary. The four-hour production aired on September 7 – 2013 in Germany. The mini biopic focused on the designer’s career and the relationship between fashion and religion – drawing comparisons between fashion magazines and the bible, and likening models to angels. The film was directed by television journalist Martina Neuen. “It’s a bit tongue-in-cheek,” Neuen told WWD. “It cannot offer you redemption or anything eternal.” Lagerfeld allowed the journalist access to his shows and studio over a period of 16 months – and shared details of his personal life and career. The documentary, entitled Mode Als Religion (Fashion as a Religion), also features interviews with Diane Kruger, Sarah Jessica Parker, Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista, Suzy Menkes and Milla Jovovich – to name but a few. “He is the most impressive person I’ve ever met,” added Neuen. “He is a true individual, and there’s a lightness of being around him.” Source: Vogue.co.uk.

 More information here: http://www.mediadesign.de/

 

Donatella