Archivi tag: handcraftmanship


The Road is Devendra


A conversation with young clothing designer Lisa Haas, 27 years old and currently based in Munich, who wants to bring back the awareness to the original hand craft and loves to create common projects as the above video. 


When did you start with fashion and why?

There was no clear starting point but I always felt drawn to creating things with my hands. That started at a very early age – drawing, paper crafting, crocheting… and never stopped to this day.

It happened naturally that I ended up in this field.

The passion about creating and realising your own ideas from a picture in your head until it comes alive in reality is what keeps me going. During my teenage years I started to teach myself how to sew. This resulted in designing and sewing my own graduation dress for school, although back then, I didn’t have much experience with pattern cutting. There was just this strong wish and belief to get this red dress done. And with a little help it worked out in the end.

Looking at that dress now makes me smile… but we all start somewhere. This is important.
Then things moved on from there. I did my first internship in my hometown and had the chance to do another one at Puma in London, to find out whether my wish to study fashion design after those experiences would prevail. It did.
I started with fashion because I truly love the handcraft. The ability of creating things by yourself and experiencing the whole development, every step, from start to finish causes a deep connection to what you are doing. That is a wonderful process and feeling to me. Expanding the knowledge on your craftsmanship in order to prevent it from dying out feels even more important nowadays. Actually, I prefer to say clothing design instead of fashion design, because to me that adds value to it.


One of my biggest dreams is to go abroad again to work with an international team in an interdisciplinary studio. The exchange between people within a team and the common work on a project towards the same goal makes me feel the special energy coming alive. Also this environment doesn’t need to be within fashion only. It is about creating the network.
At the moment, I am enticed by the opportunities of clothing design of work wear for restaurants, hotels, etc. You create clothing for real people who work there. Still, there is a minimalist and timeless design approach customized for each client, with the goal of making the uniforms personalised for every employee.
Another dream is to work as a costume designer for dance companies and music artists. I have a strong connection and love for dance, as I’ve been dancing myself for years. Here, creating clothing comes again with different challenges, this time combining customisation for each dancer while allowing optimal performance, i.e. movement.

My goal is to spread my enthusiasm with my fellow workers through the work and projects as well as the time we share together. Basically, contributing to the creative field with my work while also being able to gather people to learn and create together and thereby giving something back.

What to do to pursue goals?

Right now, I am focussing on connecting with people it would be great to work for and with. I am always open to collaborations. Currently, it feels like a transition phase. Simultaneously, I’m creating ideas and realizing outfit projects I have had in mind for a long time. I’m also working with people within the network I built up here in Munich.

time(is)less_LisaHaas_6_by IsabellaHager-mintime(is)less_LisaHaas_3_by IsabellaHager-min


Stories around people and feelings that certain situations create inspire me most. This method is also how I approached my graduation collection “Time(is)less”. The concept is about the perception of time nowadays with regard to deceleration. Keywords are, amongst other things, protection and restriction. This resulted in creating some kind of ‘armour’ protecting you as a second layer. At the same time, this piece might narrow your own field of action because you wear it on top and it is not always possible to put it on fully by yourself. To me, this is a way of translating feelings into clothing. What does the wearer feel? It is my main question when creating.
Colours and textures are a source of inspiration too. Often, the fabrics are there before I really know what it is going to be. It is interesting, as sometimes the fabric just ‘tells’ what it should become. When there is a certain colour combination that attracts me, my eyes begin to sparkle. No matter where I find it… in the streets, in the landscape, in rooms, in pictures. I take photographs, sometimes some notes as well and come back to it when needed. Over time, this has resulted in some kind of photo library, a personal collection of inspiration.
Talking about this leads to another form of art that I enjoy: collages. With small cut out pictures from an existing world another new world is created. For this, I am randomly collecting newspapers and magazines to look for interesting images I can use any time later on.


I remind myself why I started this in the first place. It is sewing. It is gaining knowledge about the handcraft and learning within the field of aesthetics. Being capable of performing a certain task. I am also happy to spread my knowledge.
Obviously, you might reach a point in life where you rethink what you are doing right then. At that time, it may seem difficult but this hardship may bring a lot of (hidden) opportunities with it. You need to keep going, trust in yourself and listen to that inner voice. Even if the next chapter you are about to embark on isn’t clear yet.
Also, I try to reach out to other disciplines. A huge passion of mine is cycling with my racing bike. Long distance trips or climbs in the mountains always help me clear my mind and I return re-energised for new projects.


What is the purpose of fashion nowadays? If you can speak of purpose… In which way do we need to produce today? These questions became more and more present over the years since the beginning of my studies.
For me, it starts with raising the perception and value of clothing in society again. There needs to be an awareness of how long it actually takes to realize a single garment, how much work and time is invested, in order to prevent it from being thrown away carelessly. The value of clothing has decreased over the years, but I also think it is slowly increasing again. We need to shift our minds and attitudes towards the worth of clothing.

My personal style is minimalistic and reduced with some details you only notice with a second, closer look. Taking inspiration from menswear and combining it with feminine shapes shows the interaction of contrasts, which I am fond of.

Even though it’s been a couple of years since I created ‘Time(is)less‘, it is still relevant today – how are we using our time nowadays and how is it influenced by society and the system’s rules?

To carry on this thought I came back to creating a timeless wardrobe representing yourself, as I still believe that clothing is a protection for yourself and your personality, that can make you feel comfortable – because unfitted, impersonalised clothing can achieve quite the opposite. Through defining your personality and the clear vision of what you want to wear in order to feel being yourself automatically leads to buying less but selected garments of good quality that have a long term space in your wardrobe. This is what I am focusing on in my work right now. Another challenge is to only make use of all the fabrics I collected over the years.

There is a love to create an outfit for someone, be it a wedding outfit and concert outfit for a cellist. My wish is to allow people to feel like themselves when wearing their outfit, it encourages them in what they are doing because it fits perfectly and underlines their personality.

My take on these issues and the future of clothing design:

Be aware of what you have and use what is already there. I believe that personalised clothing, i.e. especially made for someone, will increase its value to the owner. The awareness of how long it actually takes to create a garment needs to be transparent to consumers again to avoid the cycle of buying cheap clothes just like that and throwing them away uncaringly as soon as there is the slightest damage that could easily be fixed by someone with the most basic knowledge of sewing. To me there is magic in repairing things. Not only clothing. It shows that you care about them. Hence, I want to share not only that magical feeling with others but also give them a means of achieving this by sharing my knowledge and experience in the field.

VIDEOS – Styling by Atelier Haas

The Road is Devendra
Amy Ayanda – Visitors

Photo credits by Isabella Hager, Manuel Nieberle, Simon Freund, Lisa Haas

Atelier Haas



Chanoa Tarle, a repeat Deshabille contributor, was lucky enough to discover the artwork of George Vargas. Once he began to produce fashion featuring his designs, she jumped at the chance to interview him. Of course we said yes…


Following his first ayahuasca experience, many of his works went on to feature even more esoteric themes linked to spirituality, meditation and creative, cosmic expansion. Post-ayahuasca, Vargas knew exactly what he wanted to express. He describes his work as a “complete engagement with beauty”. He follows his yen for beauty and the more he focuses on this beauty, the more it grows and the more it appears throughout his existence. A fitting destiny for the Australian artist with parents hailing from Peru!


It’s a fun journey, linked a lot to my meditation and spirituality. It’s good to unplug from the art and the world. The idea of feeling you’ve got everything and don’t need anything. That’s what I want to express in the next series of artwork. I went through an exploration of desire and the mystery of women and every girl is completely different- and obviously every human being. It’s a fascinating journey. I see a lot of femininity in nature. Masculinity is interesting too because I’m reacting to that…” – George Vargas



Fast forward to 2018 and his distinctive designs are the focal point of a new luxury fashion brand, The House of Vargas. High quality tees feature his artwork in an array of colors. Incredible scarves and sarongs in silk and chiffon highlight the beauty of the women who wear them – never overpowering them – while serving as wearable art. There is something about the way he produces the art and produces the collections. There’s an energy to every piece that is nearly palpable. George attributes it to beauty, a common theme in  his works: “I suppose it’s this overpowering beauty I’m feeling for the subject and it’s captured in the vibration and the line and the colors. It’s a bit overpowering like a drug. Intoxicating.”


“Luxury is all about self-expression to me because you’ve got clothing that all looks the same out there. Luxury to me is having something unique to wear. The scarves will always be limited edition. [I’m offering] jackets of only five pieces in the world.” Since there will never be another you, he loves the idea of offering something truly unique.

Since there will never be another you, he loves the idea of offering something truly unique. Art-adorned leather motorcycle jackets are coming soon, the product of a new partnership with a leather specialist- as well as leather bomber jackets for men and women. The first, set to debut this month, is the Aki Jacket.



His fashion brand has so far developed in a very organic way. And we can expect to see a lot more from The House of Vargas in the future. The custom stories he crafts for each design will evolve into future fashion films. More product categories will be introduced. We’ll see artful exhibitions. He’s even ready to transform the likes of nightclubs, restaurants and yoga centers; his designs are available for custom commercial interior design.

Instagram: @galacticemperor12

Editor’s Note: When the author interviewed the artist for Deshabille Magazine, the video call wouldn’t register her face. After their conversation, Vargas looked her up on Instagram and saw her as a striking character for his pieces. She is now one of his muses, featured regularly in his works.


Chanoa Tarle About Chanoa Tarle 

Chanoa Tarle is a freelance copywriter, journalist and editor specializing in fashion and luxury goods/lifestyle.

Her work has appeared in magazines including ELEVATE and Luxury Hoteliers and she’s written for an inspiring list of companies including Scaling Retail and Neiman Marcus.

Get in touch – Email




“Perhaps what makes me different from other crafters that accomplish similar procedures is quite the way how I perceive the frame of the natural content.Each one tells a story.”


“It all started with a rather geeky passion for botanical cataloguing and a very philosophical idealization of Nature. I was born and raised in a grey city, so any immersion in the green is still a moment of absolute joy. I observe leaves and collect findings, I breathe and smile.

Since I live in Lecce (South Italy) this happens to me a lot! And walk after walk I begun to see and identify the small vegetation spontaneously growing not only in the fields by even in town, in the villas and gardens, at the park, in the rather retro cracks of the Baroque palaces. A natural presence that is no how prevented.

On the contrary.

I have always very much liked macro pics in photography. And I believe that the idea of impressing leaves is the immediate consequence of that rather childish leaning towards observation and collection. Polymer clay is perfect to make up this unconventional herbarium because it is very apt to hold the tinier details of the natural texture. The most joyful part of the whole process is when I remove the leaf and discover the negative. Then again, I smile a lot. Once removed the small finding, the most creative moment begins through hand-cut, when I try to build a frame which doesn’t necessarily depict it as an entire, but set it as if a picture. A frame that comes to a completion with the final application of color, after heating.

At present I have refined this simple technique by using two or three colors, as if pendants and earrings were small canvas. For some time now I have been making my own clay blends in order to catch seasonal palettes. I find inspiration in art, but also and perhaps mostly, in fashion. Especially in those designers fostering a “culture of the contrast” and who dare a lot, such as Dries Van Noten, to mention one.

So now, during my walkabouts looking for seedlings, I find myself already being aware of which combination of clay and acrylic will fit this or that plant. It is very amusing. Another style topic has lately popped out throughout the last two years of handicraft practice and that is a completely  spontaneous leaning towards vintage. Particularly in the choice of shapes, such as the oval on leverback earrings or the button earrings that hold a destructured leaf impression, vaguely recalling the 1950s New Look.

It is like those shapes were coming out of somewhere inside my inner world, with no clue of where exactly.”

Who is Paola?

I have been called Madam for a few decades now. A fact that still dazes me. I would say then that the age in which Paola lives does not match the time in which she lives. Here in Lecce they say “Hi Madam!”. A kind way to keep together the contradiction. And it is probably not a coincidence if I moved here to put a distance between me and that Milanese- attitude that too much nuanced the contrast. Lately I can not talk about me without mentioning this biographical data. A new beginning.

How did you start and where does your passion come from?

Here as well, “where” comes together with “when”. In a mood that slows down as in Salento, I succeeded in creating for myself an interior room where to cultivate an handicraft dimension that is to me “female” by definition. A very ancient leaning towards “naturality” that probably comes first as an idea. The path I am in has roots in philosophical practice where I attended the thought of Nature.

I believe what ADèLe says • A Dream of Leaves is the objectification of this process. The name of a woman and an archetypical form…

What would you say to somebody who show a dream like yours?

Handicraft is a practice of the soul. It is essential to spread it in the world, in order to accomplish it. Fear and procrastination are the dragons to be fought.

Projects for the future?

There is a technique I am keen to explore next year and this is the lost-wax casting. The chance to hold the natural findings in a more plastic dimension. Also, I would like to combine further the twofold dispositions of my project — the educational and the creational — by running workshops for kids.

How do you concretely express yourself?

It all starts with walkabout. I go out and I look for an environment where the small local vegetation lives. I spend time nursing gardens and parks. Here I gather the spontaneous seedlings that change at every seasonal change. I also nurse a terrarium outside of my studio, a photographic one. But the most concretely creative moment is when I remove the findings from thw clay and I begin to imagine scenarios as on a small canvas. A macro pic that I complete applying color after heating.

What makes you so special?

How I perceive the frame of the natural content is perhaps what makes me different from other crafters that accomplish similar procedures. Each one tells a story. Another topic is probably the research on the palette. I pay a lot of attention to cromatic seasonal trends and I like to confront with specific shades I produce autonomously in blends.

3 words to describe you

• Searcher: Philosophy is the art of exploring and I am a philosopher who practices this art everyday.
• Tenacious: In many ways: obstinate and steadfast but also resistant and cautious.
• Autumnal: Born in September my best months are those from fall equinox to winter solstice.

Mariposa Bijoux

“Behind all this there is so much passion, determination, optimism, patience… but also many privations…”


“My name is Incoronata and I am a Designer, Milliner, and dressmaker!

I come from a small town located in the north of the beautiful Apulia named Manfredonia and I am the second of four daughters.

For 3 years I have lived in one of the most beautiful islands of the Canaries (Spain), precisely in Tenerife. 4 years ago I was on holiday with my lover and I fell madly in love with this fantastic place. It is always spring here, and this a great advantage for me and my creations because it means that I can sell them in flea markets and in luxury hotels all year round!

In fact, thanks to the markets, I have known a lot of people all around the world who contacted me on on our FB page, even after the purchase was made in person. I ships to Germany, England, Belgium and North to South Italy. My passion started from the age of 10… At that point I learned to sew from my neighbour… I loved to create clothes for my dolls and to organize fashion shows with my small friends. Art is a gift of my family… My father is a craftsman and my mother is a housewife, but above all a great cook; she makes great cakes, a skill that she passed on to my sister who is now a pastry chef and works as cake designer for “Le Delizie di Amerilde”.

She already won various competitions, including the “Cake Design Italian Festival” in Milan!

Back to me, the idea of ​​creating jewelry was born in 2003 when I was preparing my first show with Stil Daunia Fashion, organized by the Artisan Association Manfredonia. I showcased my clothes and accessories under the theme “A dress for every occasion” and I came in fourth place. Then two years later I opened my atelier called “Art and Fashion”, which was selling designer fabrics of the most prominent Italian and international fashion brands. The best sellers were chantilly laces embroidered with precious stones and printed silks. I drew and customized outfits and bridal gowns, all with accessories like Swarovski jewelry, and decorated bags and shoes!

I was really famous and everyone knew them, people came from far away to buy them…

In 2006 I participated in the same competition for the second time, and came in second place with the theme “20’s” presenting clothes and accessories including bags, all made by me. I already taught myself in the past to create jewelry.

Today I use the technique of soutaches, after seeing a pair of earrings a girlfriend wore.

In November 2013 I created my first jewelry line and created a Facebook page. Swiftly it became a success, all thanks to the collaboration of friends and family who liked my page. Facebook was an exceptional showcase and it hasn’t stopped since then! Today I can say that this “my biggest goal”.

In only 3 years I created this small workshop of jewelry; unique and original in their style, refined, elegant and created with precious materials such as beads of Tenerife, Swarovski, igneous stones, and rhinestones.

Behind all this there is so much passion, determination, optimism, patience… but also many privations… often I do early hours to satisfy all the demands of customers, especially in the period of the year between May to September where there are many ceremonies and parties.

I produce at home on a very big table, bigger than the one where I eat! Ideas and inspirations come from different worlds… from cinema to music. Many photo albums that I created on my FB page have the names of big stars like Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren, Shakira and Jennifer Lopez.

As I said, it was not always easy, that is why there is a sentence that I always repeat to encourage myself or when I am in trouble: “God help me… He helps me… He is listening to me… My faith in God helps me, and I know that there is “someone up there who protects me.”

About my future projects: I would like to open a small Atelier where I can sell my jewelry and give a wide choice to my customers, soon I will open a website, it’s a work in progress! 🙂

Important about me: I approach life and work always with positivity, serenity, happiness. That is also why most of my creations have very lively colors, only because I like to give life and color to convey something positive to people and I try to avoid people who can give me negativity.

The motto of my page is ”Mariposa bijoux, to shine like a Diva”! 😉

This is me, Incoronata 🙂 Thank you very much, I hope to gain even more success through this interview! A big hug and lots of kisses from the beautiful Tenerife!”


FB: Mariposa.bijoux



“If I have to use only an adjective to describe myself I would say that I am a very dynamic person: I can’t stand losing time without doing something useful. I always have to make plans, to design, or at least fantasize.


Carlottina Lab is the creative result of a project by Carlotta, the fashion designer and owner of it.

Tell us something about you Carlotta: who you are, where are you from, what do you like… and everything you want us to know! 

My name is Carlotta Franzini, I am 28 years old, I was born in Cagliari where I also grow up, but at the moment I live in a small village of the district with my partner and my little child Giovanni.

I have studied architecture and have been always passionated about design. If I have to use only an adjective to describe myself I would say that I am a very dynamic person: I can’t stand losing time without doing something useful. I always have to make plans, to design or, at least, fantasize.

How was your project CARLOTTINA LAB born and what makes it special?

The real project started in 2009 but I actually started to sew bags since I was 16. It is the result of my passion together with the ability to manufacture and create handmade designs. I was looking for a different and more personal dimension of the work, with a tempo and rhythm more compatible with my needs.

Simply put, I wanted to turn around the factory work situation and find a new dimension that would go back to your own abilities to create and organize. I think that this is exactly what is so special about it: You can find this spirit in every bag I produce! Another important aspect is the special and direct relationship with customers: they have the ability to follow the whole process of the creation of the bag they choose, right from the beginning.

In regard to customers, what role do they play? Does the client decide everything or can we define it as “team work”? Are you usually strongly influenced by advices from people who want to customise their “carlottina”? 

Usually I always start with an interview of the customer, askying them how would they like the bag, what they are planning to use it for, and what kind of sensations they want to transfer through it: for instance, I ask if they want a stiff bag, that can communicate solidity, or on the other hand, a soft bag can fit with the body). Finally, I ask about the colour, what they want to put inside and so on… Starting with this information I draw a model that I will later show to the customer: they tell me then what they like about it or what they would prefer to change.

At this stage I begin the phase of fulfillment. That is why I describe them as “customised bags with a soul”, because it is like getting a custom- tailored dress. Often a bag is not just a bag, it has a meaning more than a dress: you wear it most of your time, it is coming with you everywhere and it has to represent you and your style: it has to be comfortable or useful, it depends on what kind of person you are!

When did you realize that this passion could become your job?

For many years I was sewing bags just as a hobby, but then at some point I decided to invest in my passion, both ideally and economically, and at that point I became an artisan.

Probably my decision was the result of a period of deep crisis in the society; it was no longer possible to yearn for a permanent job and I really wanted to create something personal in which I could put my energy and that could express my feelings and my personality.

Where do you find the inspiration?

Truth be told everywhere, I like to look around me and discover small details that can become a central idea to manufacture new bags, sometimes whole collections.

What is your philosophy? where does this passion come from?!

The philosophy which leads my work is mostly my wish to bring back together in a single product all my experience and all the values I believe in.

Which kind of values you mean?

There are many virtues that are really meaningful for me: the first of all is intellectual honesty but also the iron will to built something original and that can represent me. Furthermore the seriousness associated with that fact that I am not taking myself too seriously it always helps to enjoy life!

What is the connection between the nature and your bags?

It is a relationship that follows the pre- industrial period, a relationship where aspects like the personal material choice, the attention to wastefulness and, whenever possible, the use of recyclable materials. These are important components of my work.

What do people like most about your work?

I think that they really appreciate the direct and informal relationship that I establish with them, as well as the willingness to create accessories that correspond exactly to their expectations. It is not unusual that, when customers come to my home (which is also my workshop) to order or to pick up their product, they suddenly find themselves drinking a tee in my living room or playing with my son! I love that they can feel like they’re at home with me.

Do you want to spread a message with your art?

I try to communicate to people all the passion that I put into everything I make. I strongly believe that people have to go back to believing in workmanship; they should buy products made from small retailers rather than big companies as much as possible. Handcraft can become the new motivation power of the world economy.

You can find Carlottina Lab in Via Palermo 43, Sant’Anna Arresi 09010 Carbonia- Iglesias (Italy)