Archivi tag: fashion

ATELIER HAAS

The Road is Devendra

 

A conversation with young clothing designer Lisa Haas, 27 years old and currently based in Munich, who wants to bring back the awareness to the original hand craft and loves to create common projects as the above video. 

 

When did you start with fashion and why?

There was no clear starting point but I always felt drawn to creating things with my hands. That started at a very early age – drawing, paper crafting, crocheting… and never stopped to this day.

It happened naturally that I ended up in this field.

The passion about creating and realising your own ideas from a picture in your head until it comes alive in reality is what keeps me going. During my teenage years I started to teach myself how to sew. This resulted in designing and sewing my own graduation dress for school, although back then, I didn’t have much experience with pattern cutting. There was just this strong wish and belief to get this red dress done. And with a little help it worked out in the end.

Looking at that dress now makes me smile… but we all start somewhere. This is important.
Then things moved on from there. I did my first internship in my hometown and had the chance to do another one at Puma in London, to find out whether my wish to study fashion design after those experiences would prevail. It did.
I started with fashion because I truly love the handcraft. The ability of creating things by yourself and experiencing the whole development, every step, from start to finish causes a deep connection to what you are doing. That is a wonderful process and feeling to me. Expanding the knowledge on your craftsmanship in order to prevent it from dying out feels even more important nowadays. Actually, I prefer to say clothing design instead of fashion design, because to me that adds value to it.

Dreams.

One of my biggest dreams is to go abroad again to work with an international team in an interdisciplinary studio. The exchange between people within a team and the common work on a project towards the same goal makes me feel the special energy coming alive. Also this environment doesn’t need to be within fashion only. It is about creating the network.
At the moment, I am enticed by the opportunities of clothing design of work wear for restaurants, hotels, etc. You create clothing for real people who work there. Still, there is a minimalist and timeless design approach customized for each client, with the goal of making the uniforms personalised for every employee.
Another dream is to work as a costume designer for dance companies and music artists. I have a strong connection and love for dance, as I’ve been dancing myself for years. Here, creating clothing comes again with different challenges, this time combining customisation for each dancer while allowing optimal performance, i.e. movement.

My goal is to spread my enthusiasm with my fellow workers through the work and projects as well as the time we share together. Basically, contributing to the creative field with my work while also being able to gather people to learn and create together and thereby giving something back.

What to do to pursue goals?

Right now, I am focussing on connecting with people it would be great to work for and with. I am always open to collaborations. Currently, it feels like a transition phase. Simultaneously, I’m creating ideas and realizing outfit projects I have had in mind for a long time. I’m also working with people within the network I built up here in Munich.

time(is)less_LisaHaas_6_by IsabellaHager-mintime(is)less_LisaHaas_3_by IsabellaHager-min

Inspiration.

Stories around people and feelings that certain situations create inspire me most. This method is also how I approached my graduation collection “Time(is)less”. The concept is about the perception of time nowadays with regard to deceleration. Keywords are, amongst other things, protection and restriction. This resulted in creating some kind of ‘armour’ protecting you as a second layer. At the same time, this piece might narrow your own field of action because you wear it on top and it is not always possible to put it on fully by yourself. To me, this is a way of translating feelings into clothing. What does the wearer feel? It is my main question when creating.
Colours and textures are a source of inspiration too. Often, the fabrics are there before I really know what it is going to be. It is interesting, as sometimes the fabric just ‘tells’ what it should become. When there is a certain colour combination that attracts me, my eyes begin to sparkle. No matter where I find it… in the streets, in the landscape, in rooms, in pictures. I take photographs, sometimes some notes as well and come back to it when needed. Over time, this has resulted in some kind of photo library, a personal collection of inspiration.
Talking about this leads to another form of art that I enjoy: collages. With small cut out pictures from an existing world another new world is created. For this, I am randomly collecting newspapers and magazines to look for interesting images I can use any time later on.

Motivation.

I remind myself why I started this in the first place. It is sewing. It is gaining knowledge about the handcraft and learning within the field of aesthetics. Being capable of performing a certain task. I am also happy to spread my knowledge.
Obviously, you might reach a point in life where you rethink what you are doing right then. At that time, it may seem difficult but this hardship may bring a lot of (hidden) opportunities with it. You need to keep going, trust in yourself and listen to that inner voice. Even if the next chapter you are about to embark on isn’t clear yet.
Also, I try to reach out to other disciplines. A huge passion of mine is cycling with my racing bike. Long distance trips or climbs in the mountains always help me clear my mind and I return re-energised for new projects.

Difficulties.

What is the purpose of fashion nowadays? If you can speak of purpose… In which way do we need to produce today? These questions became more and more present over the years since the beginning of my studies.
For me, it starts with raising the perception and value of clothing in society again. There needs to be an awareness of how long it actually takes to realize a single garment, how much work and time is invested, in order to prevent it from being thrown away carelessly. The value of clothing has decreased over the years, but I also think it is slowly increasing again. We need to shift our minds and attitudes towards the worth of clothing.

My personal style is minimalistic and reduced with some details you only notice with a second, closer look. Taking inspiration from menswear and combining it with feminine shapes shows the interaction of contrasts, which I am fond of.

Even though it’s been a couple of years since I created ‘Time(is)less‘, it is still relevant today – how are we using our time nowadays and how is it influenced by society and the system’s rules?

To carry on this thought I came back to creating a timeless wardrobe representing yourself, as I still believe that clothing is a protection for yourself and your personality, that can make you feel comfortable – because unfitted, impersonalised clothing can achieve quite the opposite. Through defining your personality and the clear vision of what you want to wear in order to feel being yourself automatically leads to buying less but selected garments of good quality that have a long term space in your wardrobe. This is what I am focusing on in my work right now. Another challenge is to only make use of all the fabrics I collected over the years.

There is a love to create an outfit for someone, be it a wedding outfit and concert outfit for a cellist. My wish is to allow people to feel like themselves when wearing their outfit, it encourages them in what they are doing because it fits perfectly and underlines their personality.

My take on these issues and the future of clothing design:

Be aware of what you have and use what is already there. I believe that personalised clothing, i.e. especially made for someone, will increase its value to the owner. The awareness of how long it actually takes to create a garment needs to be transparent to consumers again to avoid the cycle of buying cheap clothes just like that and throwing them away uncaringly as soon as there is the slightest damage that could easily be fixed by someone with the most basic knowledge of sewing. To me there is magic in repairing things. Not only clothing. It shows that you care about them. Hence, I want to share not only that magical feeling with others but also give them a means of achieving this by sharing my knowledge and experience in the field.

VIDEOS – Styling by Atelier Haas

The Road is Devendra
Amy Ayanda – Visitors

Photo credits by Isabella Hager, Manuel Nieberle, Simon Freund, Lisa Haas

Atelier Haas

Donatella

I CAN’T GIVE NAMES

Once upon a time, there were designers.

 

 

Young, beautiful and hopeful.
Dress well, not following the trend, but, it’s only smoke in the eyes of people unaware of fashion.

God blesses them!

When I believed I was a designer, I was too old to be enchanted by the false promises of designers more famous than me.
Because, first, “my mother wanted” me to learn at the University of Humanistic Studies. And then, in spite of them, “the designer, the real ones”, when I finished IED, the European Institute of Design -IED-, nobody was interested in a 29-year-old girl trained with a beautiful cultural background and no one, not even, the “Milano da bere” would have overwhelmed her, in fact, now I am here, moved only by the passion that I have never lost.

Passion is the only thing, because, We, designers, losers and little nerds (it’s not like the Devil wears Prada life, but hours and hours on Photoshop to give us back pain) we believe in what we do. Really.
Tough, we meet despicable people, cold office, old computers, and someone who claims to be a designer and wants to teach us a job, We want to learn it. Please teach me!

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I stay here fourteen hours a day to show you how I am good with Illustrator,and “You” don’t care of it, because your budget has been reduced, and you prefer to sell your soul at Milan parties, rather than investing in wonderful, and I repeat, hopeful, fashion students.
Look Out! They, those who come out of that constellation of fashion schools, are really good! they believe in it, they stop eating and waxing, to go all out and in the end, arrive you… not photocopies and coffee, but only running an errand by feet under the rain, and if the next day, designers come into the office at 9,15 am with bronchitis, pneumonia, oh my Godness, I’m dying, What a palaver for you!
I spend 4 hours drawing ribbons on a sweater, because I learned drawing, doing a good job, and not being approximate. and you tell me that I waste time, it’s not necessary put ribbons on drawings, workers know doing it!

…Indeed, nobody says that you are able to go to Mars and came back with graphic programs.

It’s worthless, they told us. Never mind. Once in a while we will buy that coat Prada. Suck it up! Because the internship is not always paid. It doesn’t mean reimbursement, lunch, metro-season ticket, we know the live in Milan is cheap… especially if our parents sell a kidney to realize their children’s dream! But it’s okay, we go along with the requests of an experienced designer, who wakes up one morning and decides that the twenty-year-old phenomenon is no longer needed, so, bye bye, if you need six months of internship to graduate from the master’s course, it doesn’t matter. Stay at home “Young and useless free resource”.

We’ll wait for a new internship, another one, over and over again. We get stronger, we start from scratch, we will learn a little more next time, but on the human soul and the wonderful life of emerging designers… maybe.
And… I mean, I don’t like to put labels on it, but, for you, Alessandro Enriquez, some other time.

A name it’s not enough, and little luck, to be a designer, and, that’s what matters, a great man.

Written by Benedetta S.

London’s calling! Wanna join our Fashion Event in London?

19th October, meet us at Lumiere London - Look @ Me Event

Déshabillé Magazine has a prime focus on something no digital platform can give or replace: the human touch and encounter. From Milan to London, the event will involve young entrepreneurs, artists and performers, emerging fashion designers, fashion buyers, media houses from around the world to network in support of talent. DM is aimed at actively raising awareness and the gathering of resources to meet key current societal needs, since fashion and art around the world has been able to successfully bring together society’s elite.
DM in essence uses art as a vehicle to rally support in establishing a creative and business network for future generations so here we come with our Fashion Event in London.

THE TEAM

Déshabille Magazine team

The team composes of female freelancers & creatives who share the same passion and values: hardworking, supportive, dreamers, travelers based across Milan, Modena, London, New York, Los Angeles and Kuala Lumpur.

Déshabillé Magazine believes in talent and people. We recognize the challenges of many artists and creatives in finding resources and support – hence we aim to provide a solution by bringing talent together in a support hub.

                                                                                             

Artists in three categories – Photography, Fashion Design, Sustainability– will be showcased during the networking party. In collaboration with Lumiere London, HERE, Remida, Oro Nero Creazioni and Bensone we will empower young entrepreneurs and artists with the real chance to meet professionals and journalists in their industry, receiving a feedback during the day of their performance and win experiences that will enrich their professional life, boosting their entrepreneurial path.

Supported also by:

Cecilia Rinaldi – Jury Director

Cecilia Rinaldi Ethical designer

Cecilia is an ethical and sustainable fashion designer graduated from the Accademia Italiana Art Fashion and Design in Florence, where she also currently teaches.  She attended Richland College’s Cultural Studies program and Esmod International Fashion Academy in Berlin.

Cecilia values collaboration and looks for opportunities to volunteer with other sustainable brands around the globe as a way to increase her knowledge and help spread and support the movement of sustainable and ethical fashion. During the event she will guide the Jury in the final selection of the winning designer.

 Olivia Igwe – Our Event Presenter

Olivia Igwe art director

Olivia will be our energetic host during our first British event with her ability in connecting people and her broad vision of fashion.  Graduated from Istituto Marangoni in Paris as an Art Director then she made her way to improve her skills as a Personal Shopper and Image Consultant  with Evolu- tion Partner, in Switzerland.

She helps vibrant yet, misunderstood creative entrepreneurs create their perfect editorial photoshoot experience that will elevate their brand and create a massive visibility and instantly captivate and connect to their audience. She has worked in the fashion and beauty industry and her work has been involved with many renowned magazines, well known celebrities but also with her diverse clients.

Special thanks to all the partners that will help us to organize a fantastic and sustainable event like Venturini Baldini organic wines, Black+Blum London, Water in a Box, Ginjan Brothers and many more.

If you are interested in this fun opportunity to be connected to other professionals in your industry and find out what surprises we have in mind for the winner of the contest. Join us, we accept applications until the 30th September, places are limited.

Register HERE

 

 

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THE HOUSE OF VARGAS – Part 2

Chanoa Tarle, a repeat Deshabille contributor, was lucky enough to discover the artwork of George Vargas. Once he began to produce fashion featuring his designs, she jumped at the chance to interview him. Of course we said yes…

 

Following his first ayahuasca experience, many of his works went on to feature even more esoteric themes linked to spirituality, meditation and creative, cosmic expansion. Post-ayahuasca, Vargas knew exactly what he wanted to express. He describes his work as a “complete engagement with beauty”. He follows his yen for beauty and the more he focuses on this beauty, the more it grows and the more it appears throughout his existence. A fitting destiny for the Australian artist with parents hailing from Peru!

 

It’s a fun journey, linked a lot to my meditation and spirituality. It’s good to unplug from the art and the world. The idea of feeling you’ve got everything and don’t need anything. That’s what I want to express in the next series of artwork. I went through an exploration of desire and the mystery of women and every girl is completely different- and obviously every human being. It’s a fascinating journey. I see a lot of femininity in nature. Masculinity is interesting too because I’m reacting to that…” – George Vargas

 

 

Fast forward to 2018 and his distinctive designs are the focal point of a new luxury fashion brand, The House of Vargas. High quality tees feature his artwork in an array of colors. Incredible scarves and sarongs in silk and chiffon highlight the beauty of the women who wear them – never overpowering them – while serving as wearable art. There is something about the way he produces the art and produces the collections. There’s an energy to every piece that is nearly palpable. George attributes it to beauty, a common theme in  his works: “I suppose it’s this overpowering beauty I’m feeling for the subject and it’s captured in the vibration and the line and the colors. It’s a bit overpowering like a drug. Intoxicating.”

 

“Luxury is all about self-expression to me because you’ve got clothing that all looks the same out there. Luxury to me is having something unique to wear. The scarves will always be limited edition. [I’m offering] jackets of only five pieces in the world.” Since there will never be another you, he loves the idea of offering something truly unique.

Since there will never be another you, he loves the idea of offering something truly unique. Art-adorned leather motorcycle jackets are coming soon, the product of a new partnership with a leather specialist- as well as leather bomber jackets for men and women. The first, set to debut this month, is the Aki Jacket.

 

 

His fashion brand has so far developed in a very organic way. And we can expect to see a lot more from The House of Vargas in the future. The custom stories he crafts for each design will evolve into future fashion films. More product categories will be introduced. We’ll see artful exhibitions. He’s even ready to transform the likes of nightclubs, restaurants and yoga centers; his designs are available for custom commercial interior design.

TheHouseofVargas.com

Instagram: @galacticemperor12

Editor’s Note: When the author interviewed the artist for Deshabille Magazine, the video call wouldn’t register her face. After their conversation, Vargas looked her up on Instagram and saw her as a striking character for his pieces. She is now one of his muses, featured regularly in his works.

 

Chanoa Tarle About Chanoa Tarle 

Chanoa Tarle is a freelance copywriter, journalist and editor specializing in fashion and luxury goods/lifestyle.

Her work has appeared in magazines including ELEVATE and Luxury Hoteliers and she’s written for an inspiring list of companies including Scaling Retail and Neiman Marcus.

www.ChanoaTarle.com

Get in touch – Email chanoa@chanoatarle.com

 

 

THE HOUSE OF VARGAS – Part 1

Chanoa Tarle, a repeat Deshabille contributor, was lucky enough to discover the artwork of George Vargas. Once he began to produce fashion featuring his designs, she jumped at the chance to interview him. Of course we said yes…

 

George Vargas, multi-disciplinary artist, creative director, and now- emerging fashion designer – is not a person one easily forgets. He lights up with animation at the mention of his projects, quickly shifting from insights on spirituality, meditation and pop culture, to the benefits of this fabric over that one and societal predictions for the future.

It would be a disservice to reduce his nature to words. For a proper introduction, I’ll let his artwork and fashion do the talking.